Nearly 200 Years After Darwin, The Galápagos Remain One of the Wildest Vacations on Earth

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By Jake Emen A dozen people are riding in a dinghy atop the bumpy waves and deep waters of Darwin Bay, a caldera that took a mile-wide, circular bite out of Genovesa Island. The sea here is known as a hub for hammerhead sharks, and everyone aboard is eager to get a rare glimpse of the creatures. “This is the only moment of these trips when I’m scared,” deadpans Alex Cox, placing his hand on my shoulder for emphasis. He’s been a guide within his native Galápagos Islands for more than three decades, the last two of which have been withQuasar Expeditions. Though you know he’s joking, a conspicuou…

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